Samburu/Buffalo Springs and Shaba Reserves/ Kenya
All three reserves are situated in northern Kenya and form an ecosystem quite different from parks further south. The land is arid, but the Ewaso Ngiro river (the only permanent or at least almost permanent river in all of northern Kenya) is lifeline in this important wildlife region. We visited all three reserves several times in the years 1985 - 2000.
During most of our visits the Ewaso Ngiro river was in flow and the roads following its course offered excellent chances spotting wildlife.
In some years stretches of river had fallen dry and this was when elefants were digging water holes in the river bed, sustaining not only themselves, but also a variety of other animals.
Oryx antelope are characteristic of the arid land in northern and eastern Kenya. They are independant of water, but still use the elefant wells, when available.
Reticulated giraffes are a particularly attractive giraffe subspecies only to be found in northern Kenya and Ethiopia. Poaching has drastically reduced numbers.
Grevy's zebras are likewise only to be found in the arid north. They have a distinctly different behaviour from their more common southern cousins. They are territorial and do not migrate long distances. Poaching has unfortunately also severely reduced numbers of this beautiful species.
Gerenuks or giraffe gazelle are another northern speciality. Indipendent of water they are unique in their ability to rise on their hind legs. In this way gerenuks can access leaves unavailable to other browsers.
Dik Diks occupy very small territories together with a lifelong mate. They are tiny and have to be on constant alert from an array of predators from lions to pythons and eagles.
This old elefant bull in Shaba must have survived many draughts and decades of relentless hunting.
Puffadders are well camouflaged in dry vegetation and can stay motionless for long periods, while waiting for a rodent coming into striking distance. They have a notoriously bad reputation, as many people who unwillingly step on one, get bitten. Poison is a strong haemotoxin.
Lions are less numerous than in some parks further south and not always easy to find. Thick bushes along the river provide excellent cover during the day. It is uncommon for lions to climb trees in Samburu, but this female had decided to do so and enjoyed overlooking a swampy area, probably in search of prey.
One afternoon we came across a fresh impala carcass rather low in a tree and decided to sit. It did not take too long before a female leopard came out of the bushes and headed for the kill. It rose on her hind legs somehow reminding of a circus cat and continued eating. The next morning the kill was gone, tracks revealed that lions had taken it during the night.
This cheetah together with his brother headed towards the river. Both were looking skinny and hungry.
Hours later we found the cats on the forested river bank. They had killed an impala in the meantime and fiested. Hard to believe how full the stomach was looking.
Also a cheetah mother with her half grown up cub had made a kill near the river, both cats managed eating without disturbance from competing predators.