Botswana
Khwai/Moremi NP Okavango
Rainwater from the angolan highlands reaches Botswana's kalahari sands only months later, usually in April at the onset of a 6 months dry period. It forms a huge inland delta, the Okavango, with plenty of water at a time anywhere close draught prevails. When the flood ceases the rains are approaching, thus this entire area has water year round. The islands in the delta as well as adjacent savanna areas are one of the best and virtually untouched wildlife areas on the planet. Only downside when visiting are logistical problems. It is necessary to book campsites many months ahead and a good 4WD vehicle is mandatory. Alternatively safari operators in Maun can arrange a trip, but costs are high (even higher, when one of the delta lodges is targeted). We have been fortunate enough to visit this amazing area a few times (last in September 2017) on multiday camping trips into the delta by boat as well as Moremi tongue and Khwai by car.
Northern Botswana is the last vast stronghold for elefants in Africa. More than 100,000 freely roam the area. There has hardly ever been hunting, so these giants are quite relaxed.
A bull elefant on the Khwai river decided to demonstrate that even large crocodiles are no match for him.
An tsesseby used a termite hill to get a better overview of its surroundings. This is one of the less common antelopes in southern africa.
Hippos here can frequently be seen out of the water at daytime. They are fierce fighters and territorial disputes can be bloody and cruel. The bull below obviously had bad experiences and very likely lost a fight.
With abundant prey predators are well represented, like this male lion resting near the Khwai river.
Some distance from the river in dryer bushland a male leopard had killed a kudu. This is about as big as a leopard prey can get. It was too heavy to be lifted into the safety of a tree and the leopard was lucky no scavenging competitor found the kill during the night.
A pack of endangered african wild dogs followed the course of the Khwai river in search of prey early morning.
These dogs can move for long distances at high speed and we did not manage to keep up with them, but later that day we met the pack at their den.
At just a few weeks old the puppies could not yet follow the pack and this is the only time, when the dogs are quasi stationary and can be regularly seen.
During the absence of the hunting pack a guarding dog was left behind with the puppies at the den. Returning from a successful hunt the dogs carry large amounts of meat in their stomachs, which is then partly regurgitated to feed guard and puppies.
In Moremi's delta region a red lechwe bull grazes in a flooded area. These specialized antelopes are well adapted with their large hooves to traverse water.
Moremi is a great place to look for the elusive and well camouflaged leopard. This cat up in a tree was rather annoyed by an constantly alarming tree squirrel.
This leopard close to 'lone tree' clearly enjoyed his impala meal.
Further towards north-west water becomes more and more dominant. Rivers of all sizes from major to small channels flow through the land and form an array of waterways, lagoons, islands and floating papyrus, the Okavango delta. This area of extraordinary beauty can best be explored by boat. When camping on one of the islands a walk is a good option to encounter species not easily seen from the boat.
In the deeper pools frequently hippos are present. While not really a problem for motorboats, encounters in a small mokoro can be dangerous.
Crocodiles are a common sight.
From a boat larger animals, which are usually hidden behind high reeds, are difficult to spot. However elefants crossing a channel can be expected.
Huge herds of buffalo roam the delta.
A solitary buffalo bull is grazing in the reeds. In most places in Africa these powerful animals have earned a nervous and aggressive reputation. In the Okavango however they are generally calm and relaxed even when approaching on foot.
What honey badgers may lack in size they certainly compensate with determination. These fierce fighters are an animal not to be messed around with.
In August 2010 we were extremely lucky to spot this lion pride in the reeds from our boat. We were amazingly led to a buffalo they had just killed nearby. Standing in the front of our boat we could observe the cats feed just meters away.
The cubs soon turned into mud covered small devils while climbing on the carcass.
The pride male showed up soon after. However he could not really enjoy a meal. Hidden by some reeds another male appeared and the two lions were involved in a heavy fight. The ground was shaking and the air resonating from their roars for a long time. Even our cook in camp a mile away was shaken by the commotion, as we learned when returning for breakfast after a memorable morning.
